Not only was 2019 wetter than normal, but 2020 has been wetter than normal as well. You can see the standing water in low spots in the backyard in this photo, taken on March 18. The soil is saturated, with more rain to come later this week. Fortunately the vegetable garden itself (on the other side of the fence) has enough of a slope that water does not puddle on it.
In my previous post I described how I asked last year’s
garden if I can use my urine as a source of nitrogen. With the caveats that I
mentioned, the garden seems to have answered in the affirmative. Thus I’ll use
urine on all the vegetable and grain beds this year to replace cottonseed meal
and assess the effects that it has. But this isn’t the only question I’ll ask
the garden to answer in 2020. Read on to learn what else I’m asking the garden,
and why.
Nitrogen isn’t the only nutrient that I’ve needed to import
in order to re-mineralize the soil in my garden. In this post from 2019, I
discussed the results of asking the garden if the wood ashes left over from
burning wood in our wood stove can be used to replace, in full or in part, the materials I purchased to supply calcium (Ca), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).
This experiment was done on a single bed, the bed in which I planted garlic and
potato onions in autumn 2018. For this bed I added enough wood ashes to correct
the entire deficiency in K and about 1/3 of the deficiency in P, which also
supplied an excess of Ca and magnesium (Mg). After harvesting the garlic and
potato onions in June 2019, I sent in a sample of the soil in this bed for analysis,
in order to learn if using that large an amount of wood ashes (about 7 pounds
for the 100 square foot bed) had brought that bed out of balance with the rest
of the garden. The table below gives the analysis of nutrient deficiencies in
the garden when the re-mineralization program was begun (spring 2013); in all
the beds except the allium bed in spring 2019; in the allium bed in July 2019,
after the allium harvest; and in all the beds except the allium bed and the bed
that I ran out of time to plant in 2019 (spring 2020, from a sample I took on
March 11).
Let’s look at the results in detail. TCEC means total cation
exchange capacity: how well the soil can hold onto cations until the plants
growing in it need them. The cations are everything from calcium (Ca) down in
the table and are stored on the clay fraction of the soil. Steve Solomon says
that a soil with a TCEC of 10 or more can hold onto sufficient cations to
supply the plants’ needs for an entire growing season. Less than that means
that the gardener should consider adding more of the re-mineralization mix
about halfway through the growing season. Although the TCEC of my soil is less
than 10, I have not done this, so I may not be obtaining as high yields as I
could. I do, however, get decent yields while using less of the sources of the
nutrients.
The TCEC of the allium bed may be somewhat higher than that
of the rest of the garden in 2019, but as I discussed in this post, there is
enough uncertainty about the precision and accuracy of the test to make any
firm statement inadvisable. The same uncertainty affects the organic matter
percentage. pH measurements have higher precision and accuracy, and the change
in pH in the allium bed compared to the rest of the garden is in the direction
I expect for adding wood ashes, which raise the pH. Fortunately it did not
raise it over 7 even for the high amount of wood ashes I used, since vegetables
generally prefer a soil with a pH in the range of 6 to 7. Since we receive rain
during the growing season, the acidic rain will help to neutralize the high pH
wood ashes. Those of you who live in arid or semi-arid areas or who experience
dry growing seasons (anywhere west of about the 100th parallel of
longitude in the US) will need to check with your state extension service or
local gardening organization to learn if you can safely add wood ashes to your
soil and if so, the maximum amount you can add each season. Based on these
results, I will feel comfortable in adding as much as five pounds or so of wood
ashes to any bed which does not already have an excess of calcium, to correct,
in whole or in part, deficiencies of Ca, K, Mg, and/or P.
Now consider the 2020 results compared to the 2013 and 2019
results. There have certainly been changes, but they don’t appear to be
consistent. The excesses of P and K that I was so pleased about in 2019 have
swung over to deficiencies. What, if anything, can I learn about how the
re-mineralization project affects the soil over time?
First, plants take up these nutrients from the soil to form
their bodies. When I harvest the plants, I remove and Mike and I eat those
nutrients. If there isn’t another source that replenishes the lost nutrients,
over time the soil continues to lose them until it no longer can support plant
growth.
Nature has many different ways to keep nutrients cycling
through the air, water, and soil; if you’re curious, you can find descriptions
in ecology textbooks. However, if the cycle for any particular nutrient cannot
supply enough of it to replace what I remove via the harvest, then that
nutrient will, over time, become deficient. This is the bane of annual
agriculture, and traditional vegetable gardening as well. Nature cannot
re-supply all of the nutrients we remove fast enough to continue to grow annual
plants on the same plot for years in a row. Some nutrients will go deficient
and need to be replenished, as I am doing by re-mineralization. Taking soil
samples and having them analyzed, then tailoring a re-mineralization to add
just what the soil needs, avoids adding excess nutrients, which can cause as
much harm as not enough of them. While I hope that over time I can get some
cycling of nutrients from the compost pile back into the soil as the weeds I
put into them become better balanced, I don’t expect to drop all
re-mineralization. To the extent that I can partially close the cycles by using
on-site resources like urine and wood ashes, I will do that. It’s probably the
best I can hope for, though I would not mind being proven wrong.
Second, I don’t have a good feel for why particular
nutrients change in particular directions over time. Possibly an ecologist
could explain it, but I have no formal training and not enough informal reading
in the field. Among other things, the apparent excess of Ca in 2020 stumps me.
Calcium tends to dissolve into the soil water and move with it down into the
groundwater, thus being lost to the garden and its plants. Considering the
excessive rain we had last year and have had so far this year, I would have
expected more than the usual amount of Ca to be lost to the garden and
therefore to see a deficiency this year. This is a common frustration in
scientific research, just something we garden scientists have to keep in mind
as we try to understand what our gardens are telling us – and a good excuse to
spend some time with textbooks on ecology or agronomy.
The question now becomes, can I use wood ashes to add some
or all of any of the deficient nutrients in 2020?
Since trees take up the same range of nutrients from the
soil as do vegetable plants, wood is a potential source of nutrients for
re-mineralization. Those of you who add woody mulch to your gardens are at
least partially closing the nutrient cycles by doing so. I don’t have a
convenient source of woody mulch that I trust to not contain systemic
herbicides. Since I have the wood ashes and would prefer to use them rather
than landfill them, wood ashes it is.
Wood ashes have a variable composition. A Missouri Extension publication on using wood ashes in the garden indicates that wood ashes
contain, by weight, about 1% P, about 5% K, and about 25% Ca. It didn’t
mention Mg, but a brief web search brought up an article analyzing the
elemental composition of certain hardwoods from forests in England, which
indicated that the Mg level in these hardwoods is about 10% of the Ca level.
Thus wood ashes are roughly 3% Mg.
In 2020 the soil is deficient in P, Mg, and K, and in excess
in Ca. I would have to add about 3 pounds
of wood ashes to each bed to correct the entire K deficiency. With an excess of
Ca already, this does not strike me as a wise move. So I will
add potassium sulfate to correct the K deficiency, which also adds more than
enough S to correct the S deficiency. I had hoped to not have to use this soil
amendment as it is depleting, but perhaps some years it will not be needed, as
it was not in 2019. That would be preferable to adding it every year.
I can add a smaller amount of wood ashes to correct for the
Mg deficiency. The Acid Soil Worksheet indicates that I should only add 10% of
the amount needed to correct the deficiency this year. Adding more risks
getting the Ca:Mg ratio out of whack, which among other things makes for
too-sticky soil. I can add about 5 ounces of wood ashes to each bed to correct
for 10% of the Mg deficiency without adding more Ca than I am comfortable
doing. This also adds a small amount of P and K, but not enough to correct
these deficiencies.
Last year I was very happy that the soil had an excess in P,
because sources of phosphate are depleting. This year, while I do need to
correct a deficiency in P, at least it is less than it has been in any other
year with a deficiency. I’ll correct it by using Tennessee brown rock, which has
about half as much P as rock phosphate and comes from the washing piles left
behind from extracting superphosphate from high-grade ore about 100 years ago.
One other question I’m asking the garden this year stems
from my continuing interest in the possibility of increasing the TCEC of the
garden soil. Fedco is offering for the first time this year a product called Hum-Amend Max which is touted as doing just this. Given the uncertainty in the precision
and accuracy of the test for TCEC, rather than adding it to only one bed and
not to the others, I will add it to every bed in 2020 and see if it changed the
TCEC enough to notice in 2021. I’ll also observe the garden as I usually do with
an eye to noting differences between this year and past years. This
may be a one-time addition (Fedco’s write-up indicates that at least part of the
formulation is intended to have long-term effects), but I will wait to see the
results from this year’s test before deciding if I should add any more in
future years.
So that’s what I’m asking the garden in 2020. I wish all of
you the best in your own projects! Meet you here again in April.
Hi Claire,
ReplyDeleteAs always I am impressed with your garden and experiments.
The Sulphur issue interested me too. So I dug out a book and read a bit about the mineral. This is from Jackie French's book: Soil Food: 1372 ways to add fertility to your soil. An excellent source book full of wisdom.
A couple of choice comments stood out regarding the mineral and onions:
"Sulphur is one of the pungency factors that give flavour to cabbages, onions(!), asparagus, seaweed and many other plants. Sulphur is essential for protein production in plants."
and
"If you are using superphosphate you probably don't need to add sulphur, and often the wonderful response from super is really because of the sulphur, not the phosphorous."
and
"As all growing things contain sulphur, if your fertility depends on mulch or compost you will be adding sulphur to the soil."
"Too much sulphur inhibits growth"
It is possible the onions strip mined the soil of sulphur? Mineral deficiencies are a real worry. I add a thick layer of compost to all of the garden beds, and then composted woody mulch to the walking paths in between the beds. Of late I have been purchasing huge 35kg bags of industrial pelletised chicken manure and throwing the stuff randomly through the vegetable beds.
The implications of what you are observing are not lost on me.
Hey, scored 15 cubic metres of forest chippings from the power company. Added about 100kg of coffee grounds to the pile (a drop in the ocean really) and tomorrow will begin chucking on loads of compost. It is steaming despite the cold and wet weather.
Long term though, minerals are a serious problem no doubts about it.
I grow a bit of clover, comfrey and borage around the farm and was wondering if you’ve ever tried green manure crops?
How are you enjoying charting the progress of your soils?
Have the spring vegetables sprung yet?
Cheers
Chris
Hi Chris,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comment from a few weeks back!
It's possible that the onions remove more sulfur, proportionally, than other crops. But you'll notice that sulfur needs to be added to the garden as a whole; the soil sample with cores from all the beds combined shows a deficiency of sulfur also. Before I began the soil re-mineralization program I added compost made from the leaves and plant materials in the yard to the garden; if that supplied enough sulfur I would not have needed to add a source of sulfur. And I continue to add compost made the same way to each garden bed before I dig it. Maybe if I added more compost it would have brought in enough sulfur. But it might have brought in too much potassium, if Steve Solomon is right in his assertion. It's complicated.
With your yellow trailer and your country location you have more opportunity to bring sources of fertility to your property and to store them till you need them than I do. I saw that huge pile of forest clippings you scored; excellent work on your part!
The one thing I do for green manure is let weeds grow on all the garden beds till I dig them. Then I dig the weeds into the soil, add amendments and compost and scratch them into the top few inches of soil, and plant into the bed. There are many cool-season weeds that go to seed before I dig the beds for the warm-season crops so I have self seeding green manure crops, aka weeds, in all the garden beds. As they say, document it and call it a feature. ;-)
Now that we've had some rain and warmer weather (mid April was decidedly cool and dry), potato plants are making their appearance and I have seedlings of beets, carrots, lettuce, and endive growing. Tomorrow I'll start preparing beds for the warm-weather crops.
Enjoy watching the leaves change minus the pesky tourists!
Claire